we shall not ease from exploration

and the end of all our exploring

will be to arrive where we started

and to know the place for the first time!

Thursday, October 13, 2005

Sudan weekly Standard - 2


Welcome to Sudan,
welcome to the most beautiful nature,
welcome to more stars than you ever imagined,
welcome to trees bigger than a church,
welcome to malnutrition,
welcome to Leper,
welcome to the most absurd place on this planet!



Welcome to the Dinkas,
they let you know:
"Brother I'm very much suffering -
Bring food!"


Ok, first of all, sorry to all those of you to whom I haven’t answered – yet. I know it is not entirely fair, first to call on you to write and than not answering. But … well, there is no but – I could say something about being busy or that we only have a satellite-modem, but that would be excuses and I’m beginning to hate excuses - , except my usual laziness and maybe that I couldn’t always think of what to say. Which in a way is not cause by not having something to say, but simply by the amount - I don’t know where and with what to start. I could tell you something about being busy, because I’m working as a teacher in the local secondary school now for three days a week. Today I wrote an exam for them for next week – interesting experience. Writing an exam for some students I hardly know, and whose level of knowledge I have most definitely no clue about. It’s either going to be a 100% exam for all (which would surprise me) or a 0% for all (which would horrify me – but I followed along the guidelines I got). To be honest what these guys are doing in school is a bit of a surprise to me. They don’t have any books. I as a teacher am the only one who got one and as I figured out by now am supposed to write every single chapter word for word to the blackboard (that seems to have been the method they used so far) and then, I assume, they are supposed to learn it by hart. Now having said that, the stuff in the book is pretty absurd! They are learning more details about glaciers than I ever heard of – and I actually had the advantage of having seen a couple of them in my lifetime – having seen Ice, they haven’t. What-for they should learn the exact definition of: Bergschrund crevasse, Roche mountanee, Erratics, Drumlines or Eskers – to name just a few of them – is beyond my comprehension. Just as it is beyond their comprehension what they are learning. School here means learning details by hart – no understanding, nor transfer, no application required! If you do cut deeper you find that this is to them like for me learning the Koran in Arabic without translation – pointless. And I still think these guys (including the one female student) could be among the best students any teacher could ever have, despite having a constant fluctuation of them coming and going throughout the lesson and other lacks of discipline – that is what the teachers here complain about ‘no discipline’ – such as spitting in class, not turning up regularly (I still don’t know how many students my classes actually have) ect. But what do you expect of a 27 year old who spent most of his childhood as soldier in a bloody war? However if you gave them the chance – they really wanted to know something! Well, in any case they have exam next week and then the holidays start – for how long? Who knows – time is a very relative phrase in Africa!

The remaining days I either work in some IDP camps, drive out 30km – 4 wheel driving on these roads is incredible fun - to a Leper station to screw together some benches for their school – actually I’m supervising the work of our local employees and fixing the drilling machine if it stops working (now I finally know how one looks from the inside and that it actually contains graphite-contacts that can be finished – and that you can temporarily fix them with a bit of wire) – which have been donated and dropped of there a couple of month ago. Since they were lying around there happily rotting in the rain! Reading and writing. I never knew how much I enjoy writing – if my former teachers knew that! Writing about all kinds of things – time makes creative!

Well, and every now and then, when I find a new camp of people who live under some leaves, finding food in the jungle, I try to mention them to the government – yes I met the governor for southern-Sudan and pretty much the whole cabinet so far. Around twenty people, who do bugger all! But that with a relaxedness that is amazing! Apart from these 20 people there is nothing remotely resembling the workings of a state around here. Apparently we are in a bad enough situation that we will get – they should already be here – some Blue-helmets in the nearer future.

Chapter 7 mission – allowed using force, if they find a crime! That’s at least what the Canadian liaison officer said in the last UN security meeting. And I guess they will also implement the 40mph speed-limit the UN introduced, hehe.

In any case, I’m still a bit lost about what to think of all this here – maybe the next time I will be a bit less sarcastic – but for the moment that is all I can do. Laugh! Laugh - to avoid facing the full absurdity that is constantly around me.

Oh and while the people here laugh more than at home – they hardly ever seem to smile!

Have a good day!

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